Saturday, October 22, 2011

Pachamama

You may be wondering why no information on Machu Picchu has been forthcoming. 

On our return flight from Peru, Tim and I had a layover in ChilĂ©. What began as a seven-hour layover turned into a 32-hour layover when a cloud of volcanic ash passed over the Andes and shut down both the Montevideo and Buenos Aires airports.  We got a free night's stay in the Santiago Crowne Plaza hotel, but we arrived in Montevideo a day late, or, at approximately the same time that Tim's parents arrived here from Buenos Aires. This set off a whole chain reaction of behind-ness.

We (Tim and his parents and I) have all been gallivanting around Montevideo all week and today we're leaving for "the Riviera of South America," i.e., Punta del Este. This is my way of saying that our trip to Peru DID happen and there ARE pictures to prove it (see?), but we're doing all kinds of things right now that make it a little hard to fully sit down and properly address it.  I can only really write about something when I'm not doing anything. Earnest Hemingway would be ashamed.

Wednesday, October 05, 2011

Don't worry, be happy.

I know it's very premature for an update about our trip but we have had a less-than-auspicious beginning and I can only hope this means everything will be flawless from here on out.

As we were getting ready to call our cab to go to the airport I got on line to check in for the flight and discovered that, in fact, for the past year, there's been no record of Tim's flight. I've only been receiving updates about MY flight, but I hadn't noticed. So twenty minutes before we're supposed to go out the door it appears that Tim has no flight. Long story short, in the midst of our major panic attack we finally got in touch with Orbitz, who we will NEVER use again and discovered it was "no problem." There was some glitch in their system that made Tim's ticket invisible to human eyes or something.

Then in security I forgot I stuffed the pocket knife my dad and stepmom gave me for Christmas into my hiking boot and it was confiscated... But it was in Tim's bag so HE got stopped and HE had no idea why. Poor Tim, let us heap our burdens on him, shall we? Jesus.

Anyway, we're set to board. And we have determined and decreed that nothing else can go wrong. Peru!! Trip of a lifetime!!

PERU

Tim and I are leaving for Peru today. I'm all keyed up from planning for years and years and OMG our flight is at 6:00. I feel like my arms are about to fall off my body. Why is THAT the way I'm reacting to this? I have no idea. But I'm so excited and freaked out.

WHOA HORSEY.

Tuesday, October 04, 2011

Upper Crust Problems

Last week I learned something about myself that I couldn't have known, but that Tim predicted: I do not like having a cleaning woman.  One of those weaselly little details I left out when I talked about this huge, ridiculous apartment is that--included in the price of the rent--are two days per week of maid service.  On Wednesdays and Fridays for three hours, a very nice woman comes and cleans the entire apartment.

As someone who proudly grew up in a single-wide trailer, I'm going to go ahead and say definitively that this is more of a culture shock than anything else I have experienced in Uruguay.

On one level, what the maid (cleaning lady?) does while she's here is really no big deal. She takes out the trash, vacuums and mops all the floors, she washes all the towels and changes the sheets, she cleans the counter-tops in the kitchen and bathrooms.  But there's another level of cleaning that drives me absolutely batshit insane.

I will acknowledge that being poor, an only child, and a child of divorce has made me neurotically and un-Buddhist-ly particular about my stuff, but I also think our maid may be crossing some sort of line. For instance, the maid not only straightens the items on the bathroom countertop when she cleans it (understandable), she straightens the items in the bathroom drawers (DON'T TOUCH THEM, LADY). She not only makes the bed (ok fine), she reorganizes all of the shit on Tim's and my bedside tables, (again, paws OFF). Same with the kitchen counters and the kitchen cupboards.

If I'm eating lunch when she shows up, she'll pick up my dirty lunch dishes as soon as I'm not looking. I'm not broken! I can pick them up myself! (My mother is probably scoffing at this. However, there is simply a huge difference between the way a stranger picks up your lunch dishes and the way you lovingly leave them laying around until your mom does it so she still feels needed [just kidding, Mother]. This lady is not my mom. And I'm not paying her to be.)

On a far weirder note, on her first visit she moved our handsoap into the shower and locked the closet where the towels are kept, taking the key with her, meaning that we ran out of towels and couldn't get to the clean ones. So I moved the soap back to the sink (thinking that was a subtle way to indicate that that was where we wanted it) and asked her not to lock the towel closet.  On her second visit, she took all but one of the handsoaps in the entire apartment--we have FOUR bathrooms--and she still locked the towel closet. In short, having a maid (at least, having this maid) feels more like having a very invasive old aunt impose her will on you because she knows what's best. It feels, mostly, like you have attempted the experiment of adulthood and failed, and now need someone to pick up everything after you.

The truth is, I have very few responsibilities here. No one really holds me accountable for anything. I have no job, no school, just a few credit card bills.  I mostly just have to bathe myself, take care of the apartment, and try to remain socially acceptable.  In Panama, mopping the floor was actually sort of fun for me because it was the hardest thing I had to do. All play and no work also makes Jack a dull boy. And having a maid has removed my last actual responsibility. Not only that, but the few things I do clean, she re-cleans, and re-arranges. I'm sure she feels that it's her job and she's helping, but mostly I feel like she's repeatedly slapping me with a ruler.

It's a shithead thing to complain about. And there's no WAY we're going to fire her because she needs the work and I need an attitude adjustment, I'm sure. But it's weird how much I dread having her come and clean and how totally uncomfortable she makes me.  It's like how birds will reject their chicks if someone handles them and then puts them back in the nest.  My toothpaste and my cornflakes are my chicks and this lady keeps getting all handsy with them. She can't help it because, well, that's what we're paying her to do. But sweet jesus, it drives me crazy.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Dry

I'm not sure why I haven't chosen to write about this before. It's a sob story I find myself having to rehash and revisit with surprising frequency, but never in full. It only ever comes up in the kind of situations when you find you would never want to explain the whole situation.

I frequently write about things that I do, but I very rarely write about things that I am. What I am is someone who has a monster sitting on my shoulders. My migraines are not just something that show up every once in a while, they are a disease. Every disease has a unique personality, like beasts in a menagerie. Migraine is a creature, a black, hairy, hulking golem that sits, literally, on your shoulder and waits for any misstep.

There are all kinds of ways to make all kinds of diseases rancorous and spiteful against you. Arthritis hates the common movement of your joints. Epilepsy sometimes hates the flickering lights of movies and clubs. Heartburn and diabetes hate to see you let down your guard about what and when you eat.

Migraine is incredibly touchy, and almost completely unpredictable. It's triggers change and keep snowballing over time. And it's unbiased in its hatred. It becomes angry if you get too much or not enough sleep, if you are dehydrated, if the air is too humid or too dry, too hot or too cold, if the light is too bright or the sound too loud. It lashes out if you have too much caffeine, MSG, or aspartame. If you have been on an airplane. If you're stressed out. If it's been too long since you've eaten or if you eat too much. If your hormones are off balance. If you sit in one position for too long. If you exercise too hard. If you stand up too fast. If you smell natural gas. If you cry.

And perhaps predictably, the evil little bastard becomes completely enraged when I drink.

I, and many, many other people like me, spend thousands of dollars a year trying to soothe and tame this disease. Once every couple of months I commute about an hour out to my neurologist's office to tell her how things are going and see what's working and what we can try, and to get refills on the five or six prescriptions I have to keep things in line. Though I am fortunate to live near one of the only clinics specializing in migraines in the entire United States, I'm not always happy with how my visit goes, because basically, there's still not a lot that people know about migraines. It's a disease of the nervous system and most of the available drugs were actually designed for other uses. The usual advice is, in general, be vigilant. Watch everything your body does vigilantly.

And the thing I find it most difficult to be vigilant about is not drinking.

The problem is, I love drinking. I love it passionately.

As I said, the things that set the creature snapping and snarling change and evolve over time. I've never been able to drink red wine. Many people can't. And it's no sacrifice. It's not the sacrifice. But I would, if given the chance, be the sort of person who had a couple of gin and tonics every other night with dinner. I had been waiting to get a big enough apartment to start brewing my own cider. Mimosas and good bloody marys make brunch brunch. Tequila is... there aren't even words for what tequila is. It's beautiful.

But beyond the fact that a rum and coke without rum is just... coke: alcohol is social. And to not drink on principle is fine and noble, but to not drink out of physical coercion, because of this alien presence in my brain, is utter and complete misery. I don't always want to drink. But when I do want to drink, I am left not just sober in the physical sense, but sobered in that I'm constantly reminded that my body is somehow broken.

I don't want to tell people, "I don't drink." Because it's not true. But I also don't want to tell people, "I can't drink," because it begs the inevitable question, why? I have had people ask if I'm pregnant, and been tempted to tell them "yes," because it's much more pleasant than explaining: "I have a demon in my brain."

Worse are the times when I say, "I can't drink," but the temptation to do so is overwhelming.

About a year and a half ago I began to notice that beer, which has always made me sniffle after two or three, had begun to give me violent allergic reactions. Now, when I drink beer, my sinuses shut down and I become incredibly dehydrated, which leads to, of course, a migraine. Allergy pills have no effect, but the fact that I can't breath is very convincing for other people who weren't sure what I meant when I said, "I'm allergic to beer."

It's true that I can drink clear liquor occasionally, if it's mixed, and if it's proceeded and followed by copious amounts of water and food. Anything else but the smallest glass of white wine is out of the question. It's like playing roulette: if I chose to play and land on black, that's all she wrote. For anyone who has ever experienced the pain of a migraine, you know that you would do almost anything to avoid it.

I feel like an orchid. I always thought of myself as rather hale and hardy, but instead it turns out that my body is much more capricious than I imagined.

There are far worse diseases that I could have, with far worse side effects, and I have no desire for sympathy. In general, I try to live my life as though it were only me that occupies my body, and not myself and also this foreign usurper. But I find myself making a lot of excuses for it, needing to explain some aspect of my behavior, most days, because of its presence. More than anything, I am simply tired of explaining and asking to be excused from life.

Some days I imagine going on a glorious and dramatic raging bender: sitting in a sauna, getting piss drunk, staying up for 48 hours, eating all the chow mein I can, crying, screaming, and bungee jumping, drinking nothing but diet Mountain Dew--doing all of the things my migraine hates and bringing on the worst headache in the history of the world, causing an epic battle, until one of us comes out dead. It would be the ultimate struggle, with either victory--a life free from headaches and this constant vigilance, or defeat--pain and darkness forever.

Most days I don't know if it would be worth it, but every time someone offers me a drink I am tempted to find out.

Monday, September 26, 2011

Fishbowl

Right now there's a dude doing some sort of crazy Tai Bo outside in the park. I can see him.

I can see lots of things.

Because we moved into our new apartment.

And my camera doesn't have a wide enough lens to encapsulate how enormous the windows are. Among the other things I can see through my enormous fish bubble are:


  • The Ocean
  • The Naval Museum across the street
  • A skate park
  • The stupid ugly building where I used to live, way, waayyyy off in the distance
  • The yacht club
  • A swimming pool (I don't know how to get access to it yet)
  • The bus depot
  • This amazing hamburger stand: Hamburgueseria el Condor.
Hamburgueseria el Condor makes nothing but hamburgers, hotdogs and chorizo sandwiches. They don't even serve fries. And their hamburgers, as if trying to solve the age-old question, "why is it called a hamburger?" are made with a beef patty, a slice of cheese, and a big ol' slice of ham. Of course. (Because everything here has ham on it.)

In addition, you can put mushrooms, olives, chimichurri, spicy peppers, garlic sauce or just about anything else on it. You can! You really can!

I digress.  What's important is that we finally moved.  We really only spent a little over a month in the other place, but living somewhere you don't like can change your whole outlook on life.  This new apartment, however, is mega overkill. One might say it is extreme.

In addition to our amazing, excessive, insane view of the Montevideo skyline, and our white furniture and our flatscreen TV (recall that the last TV was shaped like a dishwasher and bolted to our bedroom ceiling), this place also has three bedrooms and four bathrooms. Once again I ask, what is one supposed to do with four bathrooms (and four bidets)?

Saturday, our first day in the new place, we did five loads of laundry. The lavendaria we'd had to take our clothes to before--where you drop off your clothes and then they return them to you washed and folded--had taken to losing our socks. I have a very limited supply of socks here. We boycotted them and hadn't done laundry in weeks. (The glamorous life of a diplomat!) So while the washer here only hold about 8 shirts, it is still a gift straight from the gods. THE GODS I TELL YOU.

Kitchen! Real kitchen! With. a. dishwasher.
Some things still take a little getting used to. All the controls on the appliances are foreign and take a little trial and error. For instance I think the dryer might be asking me how many hundreds of times I want it to spin my clothes around. But I don't know.

And the refrigerator has a space-age control panel we haven't figured out yet. It beeps angrily if you keep the door open very long. And there's a button with a palm tree and a button that says "I Care." Please let me know if you have any idea what they mean. I do care. A little.

Also, it is very easy to get lost. I'm convinced that one of us is going to try to walk into the back bedroom and end up in the labyrinth from House of Leaves. Or at least discover a fifth bathroom or another kitchen. And how awesome would THAT be?

Parilla (grill) on the back patio, washer and dryer to the right.
Anyway, I supposed it seems a little weird that I'm happier now having the flu and being in a nice apartment than I was being perfectly healthy and living in a crappy one. I'm a nester. I nest. I need my living space to be bright and sunny and not smell like sewage

I'm probably going to miss the sound of our neighbor vomitting in the middle of night.

Or probably not.



Our bedroom... has California closets.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Popular Reading

I have officially made it 50% of the way through my grandmother's novel! (Which I thought was 1000 pages, but which is actually 1500 pages.) I think that means that I have earned the right to review the other books I've read in Uruguay. I thought maybe I'd want to stop somewhere in the middle of this behemoth reading project and read something else, but I really don't. It's such a good book. Just very long.  It's too bad that the books I'm about to review seems to have been read by nearly everyone, since I can't review anything else for a while.

To Kill a Mockingbird
By Harper Lee

Confession: this was assigned in high school (of course, obviously) and I have no idea if I read it or not. YES, I SWEAR I AM AN AMERICAN. I had one of those English teachers (God bless him) who assigned both the book and the movie of everything. I remembered that it had a rabid dog, and a guy named Boo Radley, and that Atticus Finch was a sexy lawyer (that can't be right), and something happened that had to do with African Americans. Which is not really good enough.

So I read it again. Or maybe for the first time. I don't know. But here's what I do know: it's a goddamn good book. Why do we waste these books on prepubescent people? Most teenagers don't give a dog fart about books like To Kill a Mockingbird and Lord of the Flies, which I pretty much want to read every year of my life. Instead of making them read these books when they'd rather be reading Twilight (and let's face it, at least they're reading something) we should put the best books on the highest shelves and say, "Nuh uh. No way. Those are a secret." Build up a little mystery and intrigue so that someday they'll be in a bookstore, see a copy, and just DIE to start reading it, instead of thinking, "oh, that's that book my stupid teacher made me read."


This is obviously not really a review because everyone already mostly knows about To Kill a Mockingbird. But if you "read" it in high school and don't really remember reading it, it actually is as good as everyone says it is and you wouldn't be wasting your time to read it again. Particularly because, reading as an adult, Scout is charming in ways I wouldn't have appreciated as a teenager.

I would recommend this book to: Anyone who hasn't read it, obvi, and anyone who pretends like they've read it, but can't legitimately remember the plot. You might be on Jeopardy someday.

The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks
By Rebecca Skloot

Between this, The Help, and To Kill a Mockingbird, I've had just about as many books as I can handle about the awful treatment of black people in this country. At least for a couple of months. The book tells the story of what happened when a doctor took a cell culture from a woman without her knowledge and it became one of the most, if not the most, important cell culture in medical history. It also tells the story of her family, who had no idea that an entire industry had arisen from their mother's cells.

The story has thousands of facets that make it intriguing: the historical implications of the mistreatment of black bodies, the story of the family itself living in poverty in rural Virginia, the science-fiction-like quality of the cells and their infinite replication, the (moral and religious?) questions about who owns our bodies and what responsibility do we have to science? This all probably sound very heavy and a little daunting, but Skloot is a talented story-telling and manages to take a story that has information coming from all angles and weave it into a coherent narrative. More than that, she really makes you care about the characters.

You know this is not your standard science book because, well, there's a good chance it will make you cry. I did. Hard.

I would recommend this book to: Jessica D. and people who like non-fiction books that have a plot.

Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother
By Amy Chua
(Audio Book)

This book could not be further from my scope of interest. It's a memoir by a woman who raised her two daughters, in America, according to strict "Chinese Mother" principles, and all of the resulting successes and failures both hilarious and terrifying. In strictly embracing Chinese parenting, she inherently critiques "Western Parents" who are both hovering and laissez-faire.

When the book was published a storm of controversy stirred around Chua because, in the book, her behavior seems, admittedly, a little crazy. She doesn't allow her daughters to have playdates or sleep-overs with friends, she makes them practice long hours, every day on their musical instruments, and in one in much-discussed incident in the book, she hotly rejects a birthday card from her daughter for not being good enough.

I wouldn't have wanted to live with her growing up. But here's what's interesting, unlike some crazy, nightmarish, overbearing parents, Chua is completely self-aware. I read an interview in TIME magazine (please do not quote me on this) where Chua stated that she intended the book to be funny and self-deprecating, and was shocked by the scandal it caused. Perhaps being armed with this foreknowledge changed my attitude toward the book.

Also, I "read" the audio edition, something I normally can't stand but was convinced to do by Vanity Fair's "Writers Reading" podcast, which featured a sample of Chua reading a sample of the work.  In her own voice, it's easy to tell that Chua may be driven, but she's not a tyrant, and that she is interested, above all, in the well-being of her children, even when it means recognizing the faults in her strategy--which is something few people are willing to do.

Perhaps it's a bad sign for the quality of the writing that hearing the author's voice made her intentions so much clearer. Or maybe since I don't have children, I'm less invested in her craziness and more open to whatever she's got to say. One way or another, the book was intriguing and HIGHLY entertaining. Even if her method had some faults, Chua poses many valid  and necessary arguments about the way we in the "West" relate to our children--even if you don't have one, you were one at some point.

I would recommend this book to: Any of my friends with children (Trina in particular), people who enjoy "crazy" behavior, and anyone who plays an instrument but is having a hard time getting motivated to practice. You will feel AWFUL for not practicing after reading this book.